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Surfing Lessons
15 min2019 DEC 6
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Surfing Lesson #359: The Surfer I Built

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I feel like I'm a badass surfer surfing these big waves. Killing it 1.5x OH waves with a 9'6" single fin longboard.

I used to think that was simply someone special. If I'm a great surfer is because I'm special and have some advantages that others don't.

Today I realize that the surfer I am today was not born this way, but 100% built through commitment.